How to Make a Great Green Salad *na2day

Start with the freshest greens

With all the varieties of lettuce available, a green salad can take on a whole range of flavors, textures, and colors. My own versions depend on the time of the year and the greens that look best at the market.

In summer, I make salads from equal parts of vibrant basil and slightly peppery arugula. In winter, radicchio, endive, and escarole make one of my favorite after-dinner salads; these bitter greens have a marvelous way of making me feel less full after a heavy meal.

Whatever you choose, start with the freshest greens you can find, those that appear just-picked. Look at them closely, feel them, smell them; if no one's looking, take a small bite. If your heart was set on radicchio but it looks wilted or smells past its prime, pick another slightly bitter green, such as endive or escarole, instead.

Cut the leaves, but keep their shape

I have a horror of salads made with leaves cut into bite-size pieces, a habit that probably evolved in the days when it was considered impolite to eat salad with a knife. If the leaves are cut too small, they lose their distinctive shapes and a lot of their crunch. On the other hand, you don't want to serve giant leaves that won't fit on the plate or that are difficult to maneuver.
Greens with small leaves, such as arugula, basil, purslane, watercress, and young spinach, should be stemmed but the leaves left whole. Larger leaves, from greens such as romaine, large red oak leaf, and escarole, should be trimmed as shown in the photos. Cut away thick, woody stems. Use a sharp knife to slice off stems like those found on arugula and watercress.
To determine the amount of greens needed, figure on about a handful of salad per person; double the amount if the salad is a main course.

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